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Do the molecular gastronomists have no clothes?

On culinary televangelism and the Parkerization of cuisine In the introduction to his book La Cocina al Desnudo (roughly “The Kitchen Laid Bare”), the chef Santi Santamaría writes: “one of the greatest challenges faced by today’s chefs is to avoid becoming the court jesters of the snobs and the posh.” One of the highlights of  Full Article…


The Boston Wine Party: Letter from FENAVIN, or why archaic US wine policy robs consumers

Should we stage a Boston Wine Party, and throw our wine into the Atlantic? Perhaps the most striking aspect of the bewilderingly diverse wines on display at this week’s FENAVIN, Spain’s national wine fair, is the price range: 2€–5€ is most common, trailed slightly by <2€ (a significant category, with strong representation from La Mancha, the wine  Full Article…


Talk at Spain’s FENAVIN: “Critics for sale? Blind Tasting and the Honest Wine Movement”

At FENAVIN, the Spanish wine industry fair, in Ciudad Real on May 15 (blog entry at Aprende a Catar Vino (Spanish); articles about the talk at El Día del Ciudad Real, Cava Argentina, La Comarca de Puertollano, and Vendimia), I will talk talked to the Spanish wine industry on the following topics: 1. Are most wine critics impartial judges of quality, or are  Full Article…